Magnificent Dubrovnik

Almost everyone I’ve met in Kotor either came from Dubrovnik or were heading there next. I’ve heard it was really touristy and crowded, and it was also very expensive. These were the reasons why I was still on the fence hours before I decided to head there. It was really easy to get there though, it only costs about 15 euros, and it’s gonna be a relatively short trip. It was a spur of the moment decision so I haven’t even booked my accommodations yet. On the bus, my eyes popped when I saw the rates. The average price for a hostel dorm bed was 50 USD per night. There was one hostel for only 20 USD though, that was quite the outlier. And wow! They would pick you up at the bus station for free, that was quite a sweet deal. I ignored the bad reviews and booked two nights. I mean, how bad could it really be?

If you’re looking for a cheap place to stay using a booking app or website, you’ll surely see this place so I might as well mention it. The hostel is called Villa Banana and it wasn’t bad at all. It’s obviously a house that the family converted into a hostel. The rooms were cramped but we were able to manage. They have kitchen facilities which made me save a lot of money. Good thing groceries were fairly priced. I was able to make 4 meals for only 60 Kunas. Eating out in Dubrovnik is expensive. Believe the hype. We did manage to find a burger joint near the Pile Gate that was selling burgers and sandwiches for about 20-30 Kunas, and it became our go to place for lunch because every other place was a lot more expensive. Another drawback of this hostel is the location. All the cheaper hostels are quite far from the Old Town, so that’s a given. This one isn’t just far from the old town, it’s also located uphill. Going to the old town isn’t a problem, you’d get there in 15 to 20 minutes. Heading back up though could be grueling if you’re not physically fit. On the upside, the place offers kick-ass views especially during sunset.

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The view from Villa Banana

So basically that’s how you can keep your expenses low in Dubrovnik. Stay at the cheapest place available and cook your own meals whenever possible. If you’re traveling on a budget, you really need to save money. A single bus ticket costs 12 Kunas from the kiosk, and 15 Kunas if you purchase a ticket inside the bus. That’s about 2 USD, and the cost can pile up if you plan to see a lot of places. Good thing Ubers aren’t too expensive and it could prove cheaper if you can split the cost with people you meet at the hostel.

I knew Dubrovnik was gonna be crowded, but I was still shocked by how crowded it was when I set foot on the old town for the very first time. I was there late June, I heard it gets even more crowded around July and August. Considering how cramped it already was inside the Old Town, I found that unbelievable. The  locals say it wasn’t always like this. Dubrovnik wasn’t always this crowded, and it wasn’t so ridiculously expensive. Things started to change because of — you guessed it… Game of Thrones, and the locals don’t like it at all. Dubrovnik has been popular long before the show, but ever since the old town was featured in it there has been a noticeable rapid increase in the influx of visitors. Crowds can be avoided, but there’s no escaping inflation as a result of the rapid increase in tourism. You’re gonna hear some people saying Dubrovnik isn’t expensive at all. I have to wonder what they’re smoking. Maybe they’re used to expensive destinations. Or maybe they’re from Scandinavia. Or maybe they just haven’t explored the rest of Croatia. Because even if you eat where the locals eat, even if you go to those places farther from the old town, it’s still a lot more expensive compared to the rest of the country. I’ve spent a couple of days in Zagreb and you’d think it would be expensive there since it’s the capital. I didn’t expect it to be as expensive as Dubrovnik, but i thought it would be close. It’s not. Zagreb is a whole lot cheaper than Dubrovnik. The lesser known towns are even cheaper.

If you’re in Dubrovnik, one activity that shouldn’t be missed is walking along the walls of the Old Town. You need to pay 150 kunas (almost 24 USD!) to get in. That’s tantamount to extortion but I’d say it’s still worth it, even more so if you’re a Game of Thrones fan. Everything is expensive, but if you’re gonna pay to do something touristy, this is the activity I’d recommend.

There are several beaches in Dubrovnik but I wasn’t a fan of any of them. I got spoiled by the fine sand beaches in Australia and Southeast Asia— I just can’t get into these pebbly and rocky beaches all over Europe. Still if I had to choose one, I’d recommend Bellevue Beach. It’s a small beach behind Bellevue Hotel. It doesn’t get as crowded as the other beaches, probably because some people think it’s exclusively for hotel guests and not open to the general public. You don’t have to pay to get in, it’s free. There are small cliffs you can jump off on, and there are some caves on one end. It’s can be hard to walk on the rocky beach, but it’s still a good place to chill. If you plan to sunbathe though, take note that you won’t get much sunlight past 4 PM because the sun would be behind the cliffs.

And yeah, the nightlife in Dubrovnik is also lively. Practically every day is a weekend since there are so many people visiting on any given day. This also means there are many various options available— Just be prepared to spend a lot. For instance, one bottle of beer usually costs 60 kunas in the old town— that’s about 10 bucks! There are lots of bars where you can just chill. There are clubs as well if you’re in the mood to party. Ask anyone which place they’d recommend, and you’re bound to hear Culture Club Revelin. The cover charge is ridiculously expensive— they charge 150-200 Kunas on ordinary nights. Entrance is free though if you get in before 12 midnight and you show them a flyer that their promoters have been handing out all day at the old town. If there’s a famous DJ performing though, there’s no way to get in for free. You have to pay even more. But if you really want to party, this place is your best bet especially on weekdays. We checked out the other clubs and those were pretty dead. It’s located in the old town, built right inside the fortress so the atmosphere is pretty cool. I have no idea why they call it culture club though lol. Drinks were also expensive. One bottle of beer costs 80 Kunas if I remember correctly. But hey, that’s what pregaming is for. There’s no need to buy more drinks at the club if you’re buzzed enough. 😉

If you’re gonna ask me if I would recommend going to Dubrovnik, I have to say it depends… If you don’t care about expenses and if you don’t mind the crowds, then I think you’ll love it.  If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, I’d say definitely. You’re bound to wet your pants when you set foot on King’s Landing. If you’re traveling on a tight budget and  you’re after culture though, you’re better off going elsewhere in Croatia. You’d still get a glimpse of the local culture in Dubrovnik, but the massive tourism overshadows it. Dubrovnik is beautiful no doubt, but the architecture and scenery elsewhere in the country is just as beautiful, and it won’t be ridiculously expensive or extremely crowded. If i went a couple of years ago when it wasn’t so touristy Dubrovnik is a place I’d definitely recommend to anyone. Considering how crowded and expensive it is now though, it’s not a place I could recommend wholeheartedly.

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