Mozambique is famous for its pristine beaches so of course I had to check em out. The country is massive and its coastline is vast. I had to pick which ones to visit. There are insurrections going on in certain areas in the north, so I naturally crossed out those areas— not only were they dangerous (multiple people were beheaded last month wtf), these places are also too far from the capital. Traveling by air is too expensive, and traveling by land not only entails multiple transfers from Maputo, it would also take way too long. The one thing I had to consider was convenience. Which beautiful beaches are easy to get to from the capital if I travel by land? As I did my research, two places often came up. Tofo and Vilanculos.

I visited both places, and I’d recommend visiting both if you have time. If you have a week in the country, I’d say that’s enough time to visit both places. If you don’t have much time or if you prefer to stay in one place and have a chill vacation, I guess you’d have to choose. Which one did I find better?

Before I answer that question, let’s talk about how to get to either place from Maputo.

If you plan on heading to Vilanculos, there’s at least one direct bus leaving daily. Now the bus company running this could change daily, but they always leave from the Junta bus station close to the roundabout shown below. On the day I left the bus company was Nagi Investment Os. Some days it’s Etrago.

If the bus to Vilanculos isn’t at the Junta, it will be parked somewhere close to the roundabout. When you arrive in this area, just ask anyone which bus is heading to Vilanculos. I paid 1500 Meticals (about USD 23) for a single journey ticket on an airconditioned bus. The trip took about 9 hours with one short stop for lunch. You don’t need to buy a ticket in advance— just show up early. Supposedly, these buses leave at 5 AM so just head there at around 4 AM. I did buy a bus ticket the day before because I didn’t want to risk it. I had to find out which bus was heading to Vilanculos the next day and went to their ticketing office to buy a ticket in advance. When I arrived at 4:30 AM, the bus wasn’t even half full and they didn’t want to leave until there were more passengers. We eventually left at a little past 6:30 in the morning. That’s right, I had to wait 2 hours inside the bus until we left. So yeah, there’s no need to purchase a ticket in advance. Just make sure you arrive early.

If you’re heading to Tofo, the easiest way is to take the Fatima’s Hostel bus which leaves at 4 AM daily. If you’re taking this bus, you need to email them beforehand to reserve a spot. The email address is:

fatimasbackpackersmozambique@gmail.com

If you plan to stay in one of the Fatima’s Hostels, you’d also have to make a reservation through email. Yup, they’re old school. You won’t find these hostels listed on any booking sites. Once your bus reservation is confirmed, just show up at Fatima’s Hostel in Maputo (a pretty good hostel that I’d recommend btw) before 4 AM. This bus goes all the way to Fatima’s Hostel in Tofo which is close to the center of town (it’s so run down though I wouldn’t recommend staying here.. there are better places to stay in Tofo, like Lehani Beach Hostel). This trip would set you back 1200 Meticals (about USD 19). Take note that although the hostel operates this bus, it’s basically still a public bus. They pick up passengers along the way. This bus also does not have AC so it could get pretty warm. If you feel that 4 AM is too early, you can head to the Junta bus station and take a bus to Inhambane instead. Once you’re in Inhambane, you need to take a chapa (mini van) to Tofo. These can be found at the transport station in front of the market (Mercado Central de Inhambane). This chapa ride only costs 30 Meticals, though you have to pay extra for your luggage. If you miss the bus to Inhambane, you can take a bus to Maxixe (pronounced as “Mashishe“), then take a ferry to Inhambane, then take a chapa from Inhambane to Tofo. These buses leave at around 5 AM.

If you don’t want to leave this early and if you plan to leave Maputo on a Monday or a Thursday, you’re in luck. The Cheetah Express minivan leaves at 10 AM on Mondays and Thursdays. This is more expensive though, a one way trip to Tofo would set you back 2000 Meticals (about USD 31). You need to make a reservation by contacting them at +258 849546100.

If you’re on a really really tight budget, you can take a chapa to Inhambane for 500 Meticals (about 8 US Dollars). These can also be found at the Junta station. It’s best to head there before 5 AM. Once in Inhambane, take a chapa to Tofo (30 Meticals). If there are no chapas to Inhambane, take a chapa that goes to Maxixe. These are high traffic routes so there will definitely be chapas heading to these places daily. Take note though that they will charge extra if your bags are too big. You may need to pay for 2-3 people. They fit as may people as they can inside these chapas, so the ride won’t be comfy. Ask yourself if you can travel this way for about 8-10 hours. I certainly could, but I know many people couldn’t.

If you ask me, I’d just take the Fatima’s bus. It will make your life easier. 1200 Meticals ain’t that much.

I have to mention that there are no chapas running within Maputo before 5 in the morning. It’s hard to get a Yango too. I tried getting a Yango but it seems there were very few drivers that are out before 5 AM and i couldn’t get ahold of one. The hotel staff had to call one of the drivers they knew personally, and luckily she answered her phone and agreed to take me— for 350 Meticals (ouch). That’s way too much for a 4 mile drive, but I had no choice. I guess it’s reasonable considering we woke her up from deep slumber 😂 . The right way is to book in advance. If you ever catch a ride with a Yango driver who seems trustworthy, get their number and ask if they can drive you to the bus station before 4 AM.

Now let’s say you plan on visiting both places— let’s get this out of the way. It would entail multiple transfers, but it’s not that complicated.

From Vilanculos to Tofo, first head to the area I’ve encircled below.

If you’re getting cash in Vilanculos you’ll be familiar with this area. It’s close to the BCI Bank. Wait for chapas heading to Maxixe. You don’t have to wake up in the wee hours of the morning. It’s a high traffic route. There would be chapas passing by from 6AM to 5 PM daily. But of course if you’re not planning on spending the night in Maxixe, you have to leave early. This trip would take about 4-5 hours and it costs 350 Meticals (less than 6 USD), or 500 Meticals (less than USD 8) if you have a huge bag. From Maxixe, head to the port and take the ferry to Inhambane. This only costs 20 Meticals (about 30 US cents). Then once you’re in Inhambane, head to the Junta bus station from the port. This is right by the market (Mercado Central de Inhambane) and it’s about 10-15 minutes away on foot. Look for chapas heading to Tofo. This only costs 30 Meticals, but as I’ve mentioned above you have to pay extra per luggage since they fit as many people as they can in each chapa. Naturally your bags would take up space that could otherwise be taken by other passengers. There were 32 people inside the chapa i took 🤣 . This leg of the journey takes about 30 minutes. These chapas would drop you off at the market in Tofo which is within walking distance to most accommodations.

If you’re heading to Vilanculos from Tofo, first head to the market area. Chapas to Inhambane are usually parked in this area. It’s a popular route so there are chapas leaving regularly from 6AM to 5PM. Once again, this only costs 30 Meticals but you have to pay more depending on how many bags you have. Once in Inhambane, head to the port and take the short ferry ride to Maxixe for 20 Meticals. Once you’re in Maxixe, ask where the chapas heading to Vilanculos are. Locals are friendly, they’d be glad to point you in the right direction. I forgot where the exact location is, but it’s pretty close to the port. A chapa to Vilanculos costs 350 Meticals (500 if you have a huge bag with you). Travel time is 4-5 hours.

So now let’s answer the question. If you have to choose between Tofo or Vilanculos, where should you go? Let’s compare the two.

Which is easier to get to? Vilanculos is a major town, so a lot of buses and chapas pass through here. As I’ve mentioned above, there’s a direct bus from the capital to Vilanculos. It’s easier to head to other towns from Vilanculos too. Tofo on the other hand, is a small town that mainly caters to tourists. It’s not on any route between towns since it’s a terminus. If you’re coming from Tofo, you definitely have to pass through Inhambane or Maxixe to get to other towns because there aren’t that many people residing there. There simply isn’t that much demand.

Which is cheaper? when it comes to accommodations, it’s a toss up. If you’re looking for luxury resorts, there are more of those in Vilanculos. I’m not saying it’s expensive to stay there. You can find lots of cheap accommodations on Airbnb. Tofo seems to attract more backpackers, so there are more hostels there. If you want a bit of luxury, there are upscale boutique hotels in Tofo. As for food, if you plan on cooking your own meals you can buy cheap food in the public markets in Vilanculos and Tofo. It’s still cheaper in Vilanculos though. If you plan on eating out? Restaurants in Tofo are pretty pricey– no surprise since these mostly cater to tourists. On the upside, this means many restaurants serve international cuisine. I never thought I’d be eating ramen in a beach town in Africa. In Vilanculos, there are lots of cheap places to eat. Just walk around the market area and eat where the locals eat.

As for day trips and tours, it seems to be cheaper in Tofo… mainly because the reefs are closer, the boats don’t have to go far. Overall though, if you plan on staying long term at either place, you’d get more bang for your buck in Vilanculos.

Also, since Vilanculos is a huge town with a huge population, everything you could possibly need is accessible. If you have any health concern? There are many clinics in Vilanculos as well as hospitals. In Tofo there’s just one small clinic. If you run out of cash? There are a couple of ATMs in Vilanculos. There’s no ATM in Tofo. The closest one is at a gas station about 2 miles away. I’d advise getting cash when you stop by Maxixe or Inhambane on your way to Tofo. Luckily, most establishments in Tofo accept credit cards— that’s one good thing about a town that mostly caters to international tourists. 😅 You’d only need cash to pay for transportation (chapas and taxi motas/ motorcycle taxis), for tips, and to buy stuff from informal vendors/ touts. If you get along with a taxi mota driver, get his number so you can contact him whenever you need a ride especially at night. I do see the appeal of a small town. If you prefer to stay in a place where everything in town is nearby, choose Tofo.

What are the attractions and things to do? Both are seaside towns, and the beaches are great for swimming. There are many snorkeling and diving sites in both places too. If you wanna see corals, you can’t go wrong with either one. But as I’ve mentioned above, these activities are mostly cheaper in Tofo because the reefs are closer. As for marine life, if you want to see whale sharks and manta rays, head to Tofo. If you want to see humpback whales, you’d see more of them in Vilanculos (peak season is from June to December). Dugong sightings are also more frequent in Vilanculos. If you want to surf? Tofo is a better spot. If you want to kitesurf, Vilanculos is the better option due to its shallow and mainly flat waters. One thing that really sets Vilanculos apart? It’s the gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago. These islands are incredibly beautiful. If you’re in Vilanculos, these islands are a must see. Day trips which include lunch cost about USD 100 and it’s totally worth it. If you prefer to stay at the islands for a couple of days, there are resorts there but these are pricey.

How’s the vibe? Vilanculos is a huge town where a lot of locals reside. Understandably, it can be quite chaotic. When you explore the town, it’s pretty much like any huge town in Sub Saharan Africa, only this one is by the beach. If you want to immerse yourself in the local culture, you’d get a better experience in Vilanculos. Tofo on the other hand has a more relaxed and laid back vibe. You’d also see a lot more foreign tourists here. I was actually surprised to see a lot of Americans in this part of the world. If Tofo was in Latin America, it would be one of those town that locals refer to as “gringo towns“. Since it’s more laid back, it attracts backpackers. I’ve met many solo travelers in Tofo. If you’re traveling alone and you want to meet fellow travelers, choose Tofo. Vilanculos seems to attract more of couple and families. As I’ve mentioned above, Tofo is known for surfing. There’s a local surfing community. If you’re a surfer, you’d feel right at home here.

One thing I didn’t like about Tofo? There are so many touts and they could get really persistent. They’d even go inside hostels to sell you stuff. It’s kind of a bummer when you just want to lay down on the beach and touts keep approaching you and try to sell you stuff. It can get real annoying especially when they’re selling stuff you don’t need and they won’t take no for an answer. In Vilanculos I didn’t encounter as many touts. And those few that i encountered, they weren’t as persistent.

Nightlife is a toss up. It’s pretty vibrant in both places on weekends. If you’re expecting wild parties though, you won’t get that in either place. heh.

Between these two places, I had more fun in Tofo. I met a number of fellow travelers and the surf was pretty good. I also liked the laid back small town vibe even though it was more expensive. Vilanculos was great too and the Bazaruto Islands were amazing, but if i have to choose between the two I’d choose Tofo. It offered more of what I was looking for. People are different though. I’ve met travelers who thought Vilanculos was better. It all boils down to personal preferences. I hope that by laying down the differences between the two, I have helped you arrive at a sound decision.